First Look, Spring Teas 2021

Greetings!

Here is a first glimpse at early spring teas from China this year. All the teas highlighted here were picked before April 5th (Qing Ming*) but by the time they reach us, even via air and courier shipments, somehow it doesn’t seem so early after all. That said, the pleasure to be found from these small batches never diminishes, from opening the packet to the last sip. (There ought to be a way to capture the nori-like aroma when bags of Green teas are opened.)  There are Black teas as well in this group, ranging from fine, wiry, gold styles to more robust leaves that don’t seem to hold much promise until they are steeped.

 

Some prices land in the aspirational category but with reason: the early pick and processing meant a small window of days, when the sproutings are ready but still before Qing Ming (April 5th), which in turn means a very limited yield. Being able to taste the finished teas from a few days, each in sequence, is usually possible only if one is present at the processing facility. Absent this access, it is still possible to differentiate, by careful tasting, teas finished on different days.

As I was drafting this (April 20th), it happened to be the Gu Yu Festival, an event that follows fifteen days after Qing Ming. One of the solar terms in the Chinese almanac, 谷雨 “Gu” literally means crops, and “Yu” means rain. The term might be translated as “rain ushering in a bounty of crops,” as increased and timely precipitation allows seedlings and plants to thrive. Teas produced just before and during this time are considered ideal, dating from traditional farming practices.

 

Here then are teas among the first group of Ming Qian (before April 5th) teas from this spring:

Organic Lingering Clouds Hairpoint

From a garden “hidden” and tucked in the mountainous region of NW Hunan, where virgin forest filters out strong sun.   Harmonious on the palate, bright and deep golden-green in the cup, this is a very approachable tea, an affordable step up for an everyday Green.

Wild Trees Black

As a visiting guest, I remember that my hosts often served tea from Wild Trees, a choice that indicates a praise-worthy tea. This particular offering comes from Fujian.

If one has become accustomed to the comfortable yet somewhat neutral taste of OPs, it is eye opening to come across an unflavored Black that yields so many nuances. My first impression was a mingling of grilled fruits and floral notes. The “wildness” is intriguing, and this is a vivid, seductive cup from old trees.

Enshi Tribute Black

This image may be a bit kitschy, but high end teas from EnShi (in Hubei province) are genuinely worth discovering. During one visit in early April 2018, a factory manager asked me to choose a tea as a gift. Even without pricing information, I had chosen this EnShi Tribute Black, hoping for about 50 grams. He was far more generous and packed about 400 grams.

This Black presents a curious case study of sorts: early plucks, especially single-bud types, that are made into Green teas tend to be clean and lean. In this early spring Black, precision in processing yields layers of taste sensations, with notes of dried fruit and violets. A splurge to be sure, but definitely a step up in complexity showing a high level of dedication to the craft and a direct line to the essence of place

Tanyang Gongfu Black

This is a stimulating tea to add to a rotation of elegant Black teas. I touched on TanYang last year when I wrote about Bai Lin Black. Together with Zheng He Congou, this trio comprises the most famous congou teas from Fujian.

This Black presents a curious case study of sorts: early plucks, especially single-bud types, that are made into Green teas tend to be clean and lean. In this early spring Black, precision in processing yields layers of taste sensations, with notes of fried fruit and violets. A splurge to be sure, but definitely a step up in complexity showing a high level of dedication to the craft and a direct line to the essence of place.

TanYang is a place near Fuan in central Fujian province. According to one account, the first tea from this cultivar, TanYang Cai Cha, was a Green tea. (You may also see the name as PanYang in some usages.)

The prosperity that this Black tea brought to TanYang between 1870 and 1930 declined dramatically due to civil unrest and wars. Where once Fuan county accounted for about 20% of Fujian’s tea output, production of Congou teas in the mid-20th century nearly came to a halt. I have mentioned before that on one visit in the late 1980s, I found factories with outdated equipment and mostly empty of any activity.

The recent resurgence of interest in Black teas in China means re-discovering TanYang Congou’s natural burnt sugar and caramel notes. The sensory immersion is immediate and surprising.  That we may once again enjoy a tea that almost faded into obsolescence is testament to enduring tradition, and how it has been passed down and melded with improved production methods.

In answer to the often (understandably) asked question about why a tea tastes the way it does, the answer once again is rooted in its geographic origin.  An elucidating nod to a storied past.

Gold Tribute Black

Perhaps a worthy competitor in the Black tea category vis-a-vis TanYang Congou is Jin Jun Mei (Gold Tribute), a tea that made headlines and won acclaim when it became widely available. Plentiful gold tips are evidence of early plucking of tender shoots, and so the concentrated yet refined taste is somewhat unexpected. Not too long ago, spring teas from China usually meant Green and White teas. The revival of Black teas made in March and April definitely adds more choices, broadening our appreciation of the purity of these very early teas, each attached to its own local character. This continual refinement in tea craft amplifies features that were inherent in the leaf all along.

Organic Gu Zhang Hairpoint (MaoJian)

This Green perhaps holds the record for staying true to its long history, with the earliest written accounts dating from the Eastern Han Dynasty, citing Gu Zhang county as one of the country’s prime tea regions, nestled in the Wuling mountain range in northwestern Hunan. To read about this Hairpoint Green is to skim over (long) lists of awards. Skipping ahead to recent years, in 2007 Gu Zhang Hairpoint was recognized as a nationally protected product by the government’s State Administration for Industry & Commerce.

In this area of NW Hunan, Hairpoint is the preferred finished style. As seen in this Green, the leaves are fairly tight and compact due to the greater pressure applied during rolling. An iconic Green tea, reflecting respect for its long history, an enduring expression of place, Gu Zhang is pure and silky. The chronicles may be dry reading, but this Green is an authentic embodiment of history and place.

Snow Sprouting Green

Finished in mid March, the soft mild taste of this Green reflects the character of tender new sproutings.

The word “snow” in the name, pointing in fact to the fine down of tender budsets, evokes a lovely image of new growth trailing a winter that had only just passed.

Organic White Cloud Mountain Yin Hao Green

If a Green can be said to be delicate and complex at the same time, this bud-and-one-leaf budset certainly qualifies. Below the surface lies a fresh yet lush finesse. Along with a tea colleague whose palate I respect highly, this lacy Green was a favorite find during a trip to the area in NW Hunan in the spring of 2019. Our appreciation must have made an impression since the factory manager has sent me a small bag each year since.

The leaves are prettily uniform and elegant, yielding a seductive wildflower character.

 

 

 

In addition to organic certification, this Green is a Fair Trade tea. Grown near Huping Mountain, the highest peak in Hunan, the garden is situated at a latitude of 30° N, which is recognized at the “golden latitude” for quality teas.

 

 

 

 

Forest coverage is about 67% in the small locale where waterfalls and low hanging clouds provide year round humidity. Early plucking and a very small yield account for the costliness of this tea, which is truly a treasure in another sense. From a distance, the eyes take in only the virgin forest; venturing deeper, the tea garden is revealed.

 

 

 

 

“Pine Needles” Green

One glance at the dry leaves and no other name seems possible. What does inspire curiosity is how the pluck, a bud and two leaves, was shaped into these fine needles.

 

 

 

 

The leaf appearance seems austere, yet the cup is soft with a round vegetal finish without grassiness.

 

Very good value for a pre Qing Ming tea

 

 

Emerald Pearls

First encountered in Guizhou years ago, the discovery remains fresh each year.

At left: the generous pluck — for a spring Green – – allows for the style that was intended: a fairly tightly rolled Green.

Made into a style more reminiscent of Oolong than Green, here is another teaching moment about intent during tea processing. Not many Green teas are suitable for using a gongfu pot for multiple, flavorful infusions. This crinkly Green unfurls gradually with each addition of hot water, yielding a dynamic not many Green teas can produce.

 

 

 

Honeysuckle Dew Green (Mengding Gan Lu)  

Basket drying over charcoal (shown at left) is more labor intensive than using electrical heat, but the slower method allows the retention of the tea’s natural floral sweetness.

This Green is finished about 24 hours after picking, a fine example of how little is done during processing: removing moisture, drawing out natural components in the leaves, all intended to showcase freshness.

The history of tea from Meng Mountain (Meng Shan) in Sichuan is long, filled with references to poems from the literati praising this tea and to its status as a tribute tea through the dynasties. The word “gan” refers to a type of sweetness that lingers, and “lu” means dew. One description that crops up repeatedly in the chronicles is the nectar-like quality of this tea, staying mellow and fragrant in the second steep.

We will receive another batch from plucks made on April 7th (two days after Qing Ming), and we shall see how this serves as a teaching moment.

The layers of sweet vegetal notes do not dissipate when the tea has cooled, which is not the case with many Green teas. After the first cupping, the cooled cup made for a nice change — sipping freely yet still sensing the mouth-filling quality, as a luxe quaffable Green.

 

Organic Orchid Dew Green

An intriguing lesson here for those who are fond of such details, viz. the association of cultivar (from Japan) and place (transplanted in Zhejiang). Opening a bag of this tea is a reminder of how essential our sense of smell is to the entire experience of tasting.

 

Ming Qian Dragonwell

Announcements of new Dragonwell in March and even late February are tempting to follow up, but for a signature tea that is eminently tied to place, patience must be exercised as one waits for the authentic one from Zhejiang.

Note how small and neat the dry leaves (budsets) are. Our final choice came from one of four pre Qing Ming samples.

 

 

 

 

Amber Oolong

An early appearance for an Oolong. Produced in limited batches once each spring, this tea bears no fancy name or long history. I’ve followed samples for about four years now, and the tea shows the continual effort invested into roasting technique that accounts for the round, full, sumptuous flavor. High aroma is a definite pleasure factor here.

Superfine White Peony (Mudan) {Fuding}

It is easy to be drawn to White teas. The very name hints at purity and simplicity, features that indeed reflect its minimal processing. The highest standard (Silver Needles) appeals for that very reason. The leaf appearance of lower grades, however, can be puzzling, which is why this particular White Mudan is alluring.

I first came across this tea in April 2019, and remember thinking it was probably the prettiest White Mudan I’d seen with its soft, wispy leaves. Yet even from its low intervention technique, the cup is lively and plush on the palate.

Its feathery freshness can be appreciated in another way: its export carton, sized 16 x 16 x 24″, holds a mere 5 kg or 11 lbs.

Later in our spring calendar does not mean not as good. There are teas to come that are tied to place and weather.

In southern China where most of the tea producing regions are, cold air meeting warm and humid air forms longer spring rain periods. The moisture from “small rain” along with light (not strong sun) benefit tea hills in Anhui, Zhejiang, and Jiangsu. Those teas will be described in an upcoming post.

And we are reminded of the vagaries of weather in Taiwan, where tea workers are facing the effects of a serious drought. I have to credit luck rather than prescience in having signed a larger than usual quantity of teas from winter.

A different kind of waiting:

High volume continues at ports and imposes demands on container freight stations. Some shipping lines have added shifts to reduce the number of vessels on the water as they wait for open bays. At the Long Beach port, hours for truckers picking up cargo are now 5 a.m. to 4 p.m., an improvement over the earlier closing time of 1 p.m. in place a while back, but not close to the 24-hour operation from a year ago. We had one container on a ship that came into port March 31st and as of April 20th, it still had not been off-loaded.

Sticker shock: one of our containers that just left China (a 20FCL) has a freight bill of $4600 to Long Beach, and there is no let up in sight yet. High demand and port congestion result in container shortages and schedule disruptions. High booking premiums are added to manage demand, beyond the “emergency” surcharges already in place, and as of April 23rd, a “space arrangement” fee will be charged.

In an April 20, 2021 STiR article, Dan Bolton reports that comfort, self-care, and relaxation motivated tea purchases last year and will continue into this year, writing that “the desire to spend more to indulge in premium tea and to create pleasant in-home experiences remains strong.”

Rising shipping costs are pesky, but at this time of year, new flush teas capture the spirit of renewal and fresh starts.

Wishing you and yours an uplifting spring,

Lydia

April 27, 2021

*Tomb Sweeping Day, to honor ancestors

Postscript:

Here are three teas that illustrate my reasoning for not purchasing some early spring teas.

Golden Green: a famous and beautiful looking tea, it is simply too expensive, @ >USD250/kg export price. The same reluctance applies to a lovely Zhejiang Green that carries a price tag of USD315/kg.

Swallow’s Tongue: this is the single-bud type of Green that is brewed in glasses or glass pots, to let the visual appeal shine. As individual buds, however, the finished taste is on the lean and austere end, and therefore not good value when the export price is USD200/kg.

Yellow Gold Sprouting: another gorgeous looking tea, with young, golden hued wet leaves showing the reason for the name. Again, the taste proved elusive rather than distinctive.