October 2021 Autumn Tea Notes
by Lydia KungTime to cozy up to Fall and chase the chill with fine teas!
I Autumn Oolongs
II Nine Oolong Flights
III Organic Darjeelings
IV Seasonal Teas
I Autumn Oolongs
Early October’s week-long National Day holiday in China provided little rest for those who work on Oolong teas in Fujian province. Fall’s cooler and drier conditions bring out the best of these prized cultivars, and by October 6th, ten days of Oolong work had passed.
The first cultivar to be picked was Huang Jin Gui (Imperial Gold), followed by Special Grade Tie Guan Yin. Most bushes produce high yields after three years of growth, and the best Tie Guan Yin bushes are between 3 and 5 years old. Some cultivars (Ben Shan, Hairy Crab) still offer decent yields after 30 years.

Above: Tie Guan Yin Hills in Anxi, Fujian
Not only is this category terroir driven, but the methods are so complicated many tea growers do not attempt it. We all know there are many manifestations from the one Camellia sinensis. The Oolong category itself expresses a diverse range in complex aromas and flavors that are rarely reproduced outside of Fujian and Taiwan, two regions tied by migration centuries ago.
There are production guides for large scale processing of “ordinary” Oolong cultivars and blends of cultivars. For a person to attain greater mastery means a minimum of 5 to 7 years. The varieties emanating from cultivars processed with Oolong methods show the skills honed by hands-on experience.

Above: Tea pickers in Fujian province

Above: 2 leaves and a bud, classic Oolong pick
The extended training is expressed in the teas served to visiting guests. The choice is apt to be a medium roast Oolong. This fussy-to-make style is a vivid contrast to the iced “green” Oolongs popular among young people, or Boba Oolongs (Peach and Osmanthus) now de rigueur in cafes. My interpretation is that a medium roast Oolong allows the use of a gaiwan or gongfu pot, both of which create a more traditional, memorable tasting experience, fulfilling expectations of a proper service. The ritual of refilling the bowl or pot and the subsequent bloom of developing flavors enhance associations with the tea. Lightly oxidized Oolongs show good results from gaiwan or gongfu pot brewing, but this style does not stand up as well to the repeated infusions.
White tea processing is the simplest in the sense that the object is to remove moisture. With Green teas, the intent is to prevent oxidation and then dry the leaves. At the other end of the spectrum, leaves that become Black teas are fully oxidized, one important exception being 1st flush Darjeelings. And then we come upon the middle range where Oolongs straddle a wide section of the oxidation and processing spectrum.
Processing Oolong is long in duration and requires judgment calls at many points, relying on the experience of the tea maker. This lengthy processing permits compounds inherent in the leaves to develop and be teased out.

Above: Outdoor withering.

Bruising initiates oxidation (see the red edges in the photo) which in turn allows the activation of the compounds.

Above: Mechanical tea bruising
Shaking the leaves on bamboo trays vigorously or gently is the maker’s call, as is the duration of mechanical tumbling for the same purpose, to break down the cell walls. If a figure can embody the term organoleptic, one candidate is surely the Oolong tea master.
A brief firing follows to halt oxidation. For Tie Guan YIn, repeated intense rolling with leaves inside a cloth for kneading:
That brief application of heat is not proper drying; that will come later after rolling, and can be in the form of simple drying to remove moisture, or in the form of more laborious charcoal/basket drying with long resting intervals. Post-manufacture baking creates yet another style.
II Nine Oolong Flights
The most efficient way to grasp the range this complex category offers is taste selections as flights.
Here, leaf styles are simple: basically, there are just two, the semi-balled and the long dark leaves. Beyond leaf shape, however, the cultivars, grades, extent of oxidation, simple drying vs. baking, and other processing steps exhibit a wide spectrum of cup colors and flavors.

Above: brew color from the lighter end of the Oolong spectrum.
The combinations I have chosen lend themselves to sampler kits that make cupping not only educational but enjoyably rewarding as comparative tasting heightens the discernment of extra dimensions.
The attached chart shows suggested teas for each flight, tasting notes, and some thinking points about the group.
III Organic Darjeelings
It should be obvious that Oolongs are a personal favorite. I am also very partial to 1st Flush Darjeelings, which makes a lot of sense because even though the two groups are geographically distant, the bridge between the flavor profiles is a short one.
Drought in the early part of this year made for a challenging Darjeeling season. Surging volumes of import cargo and problems in all aspects of shipping have delayed the arrival of this wonderful group, one that imparts such a dramatic lesson about how 1st flush and 2nd flush teas – from the same cultivar – can differ. Only indoor withering is done for both types, with 2nd flush leaves subjected to a “hard” or long wither. Leaves from the first flush are only partially oxidized with a simple round of drying after rolling. Oxidation of 2nd Flush Darjeelings leaves takes 2.5 to 3.5 hours.
Due to the age (80 to 150 years) of Darjeeling bushes, yield has been declining. In this lamentable context, perhaps the long cultivation history adds a positive instructive footnote to our perspective.
Among teas arriving this month are Organic Darjeelings from these estates:
The Selimbong garden dates from 1866 when the site was leased by a British grower. Situated near the Nepal border, the garden covers some 700 acres, at an altitude ranging from 1200 to 1600 meters. Abutting a forest reserve, the tea estate is a partner with the World Wildlife Fund in its conservation efforts.
Another Darjeeling garden established by the British is named Singell, with coffee and tea both planted from 1861. In the years following, tea was found to be more successful and the estate became exclusively tea producing. About an hour’s distance from Darjeeling town, the site is at an elevation of approximately 1400 m. The garden is certified Organic and Fairtrade.
Organic cultivation of Darjeeling in the Seeyok estate began in 1994, making it one of the earliest. First established in 1896, this garden ranges from 1100 m to 1800 m. The high elevation and shade from pine trees account for the consistently fine quality from the heritage bushes. Also certified Fairtrade.
The character profile of these 2nd Flush Darjeelings is deep woodsy-floral, with a hint of astringency at the finish that marks liveliness rather than a drying pucker. These richly flavored cups are a good choice as cooler weather blankets parts of our country.
Drawing a parallel with “green” Oolongs, the less oxidized 1st Flush Darjeelings are vibrantly floral, almost bracing across the palate, airy on the finish. The undercurrent of “green” in both makes an eye-opening entry point to other teas in each series.
IV Seasonal Teas
There is now almost daily reporting in news media about the logjam at our country’s ports, rail yards, and transport terminals. Seasonal Teas are all en route, although the ubiquitous supply chain problems make accurate arrival dates hard to pin down. Two are shown here:

Organic Jasmine teas are included because they are seasonal not so much for our upcoming holidays but because they were finished late summer. This is a great group and happily, we are able to hold prices in line with last year’s.
Teas from Sri Lanka and India are also included simply because the lead times have been so long, and I am glad to see Arrival Notices from shipping agents at long last.

Above: not quite what one would find in Fujian, but the Strawberry & Goji Oolong had its start there, and it sure is festive!
May you find a welcome taste of the season in your teapot!
Warm regards,
Lydia
October 12, 2021