Spring Teas 2020, Part 2
by Lydia KungBefore getting to lengthier product notes in Part 3, a few highlights:
The Organic English Breakfast is from the Keemun region, a good find.
WuLu Tribute Green: like the Green Silk Maofeng, this is a good value tea, a step above the quotidian Chunmee and Gunpowder varieties, and a stepping stone towards other classic Greens.
Gold Peony Black: Still a personal favorite after coming upon this last year, this tea comes with a great story: a traditional Oolong cultivar from Fujian transplanted in Hunan where it is made into a Black tea with a glorious gardenia-like finish.
Organic Orchid Dew Green: Another tea with a similar (cultivar transplanted) and very recent history: a Japanese cultivar grown in Zhejiang where it is made in the pan-fired style, yielding the deep green pleasures of Japanese Green without the grassier notes of steamed Greens.
Fuliang Black: I had to pass on this distinctive Black in spring 2019 because the price was not workable. With gentler pricing this season and some friendly negotiation, re-introducing this elegant Black welcomes back a much missed item. Grown near YiXing (Jiangxi), home of purple clay pots, the tea exhibits very fine leaves showing a slight twist. I sense salted caramel and plum at first, then sweet notes, followed by just a suggestion of jasmine at the finish. This is an excellent “self drinker.” That said, if set alongside Yunnan and Keemun teas, the trio would make a rewarding and educational flight of China Black teas.
Magnolia Oolong: the generously sized flowers are in full bloom in my neighborhood, a daily reminder of a delightful tea. This flower is matched with a lightly oxidized Oolong, allowing the floral to come forward.
Golden Spiral Black: Some teas draw attention simply because of how they look. The green tea buds shown at the beginning of of Part 1 make a wonderful signifier of spring teas. That particular Green, however, did not deliver in flavor. Our Golden Spiral Black is a better example.
This carefully shaped Black, with plenty of gold in evidence, is eye catching and delivers aromatic, malty rich notes.
Rose Corolla: Not a tea since there is but the one ingredient. As with some other botanicals, there has been a bit of a wait. These fully bloomed, lush, deep red roses (2 or 3 in a mug will do nicely) brew a naturally soft sweet cup. The harvesting began mid April and will end soon this month, with workers starting to pick before dawn. Shown at right is the rose garden in northern China.
(The producer suggests an iced version — a true rosé color — topped with raspberries.)
Most of the teas listed here are single pluck teas, produced just once a year, and I am grateful to our suppliers and growers who hold batches for us. One case in point is a lovely lot of True Cream Golden Buds Oolong from this past winter in Taiwan. Here are some scenes showing this tea with its remarkable natural buttery notes:
Jin Xuan (Golden Buds) as a cultivar is widely produced. Not many batches develop just the right cream aroma that is so sought after.
Several hundred kilos have been reserved for us with deliveries to be taken through June. No deposit was requested and even with an uncertain economic outlook, our producer’s trust bolsters our optimism. Tea folks are a loyal bunch.
From where we are now, looking ahead means facing strong headwinds. Let’s hope that the mundane, simple ritual of preparing a nice cup of tea offers some respite, comfort, and small pleasures.
More detailed product information follows in PART 3; the notes are lengthy — you might need a cup of tea to sustain you.
May 14, 2020