Tea Notes, January 2021
by Lydia KungThat we are able to continue with our imports as part of our regular, normal purchasing cycle is testament to the strength of the tea community. There is still a long road to recovery for those whose teas go to the restaurant sector as they, along with retailers and packers, adapt to adversity. We’ve seen a suspension of in-person trade shows, and hardships for those accustomed to chatting with customers about teas in their store premises, along with providing tastings that are so conducive to generating curiosity.
One heartening lesson from the year past is that teas are essential to many people, especially during uncertain times. This perspective has brought into sharper focus the need for good value teas, along with education — product knowledge that can enhance the pleasure derived from a good cup. Soon, tea devotees will be able to share cups together again, with teas being a simple accompaniment to the recognition that they have grown stronger and to a reaffirmation of their values.
We are grateful for your continued support, the grounding of our optimism for the year ahead.
The push to get more teas onboard last month was underscored by the prospect of long holidays as the lunar new year begins on February 12th.
As with holiday celebrations everywhere, special foods are a key part of the festivities. I remember an anthropology graduate seminar on foods and cultures, and a consideration of Chinese New Year dishes was probably the easiest assignment. Based on homophones in most cases, rice cakes, fish, and dumplings symbolize hopes for rising fortunes and bounty in the new year.
In this context, teas are presented as gifts as people make the requisite visits, reinforcing underlying respect or obligation. Because the recipients may not be tea experts themselves, the default teas of choice are big name teas such as Dragonwell or Pi Lo Chun/Green Spiral Spring. (The reference to spring is a plus since the holiday season is also called the “spring festival.”)
What we call Black teas are known as Red teas in China, and red is the preeminent color representing happiness and felicity. Children who sit through the obligatory New Year social calls are rewarded not only with candy but red packets of money. To celebrate a baby’s first 100 days, eggs are dyed red for the banquet. “Red” teas warm the body and the heart. No surprise then to find that Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) is a popular gift: a big name tea conveying red in the name and in the brew.
Besides serving as a good accompaniment to rich foods and sweets, teas of course have a long tradition, and famous, authentic origin ones make worthy gifts. Teas may be local, such as the Golden Green from Hunan, a Puer from Yunnan, or they may be from a distant province, such as a fine Jasmine, bringing a welcome bouquet into one’s home at a time when little else is blooming.
Demand for premium teas is high in the domestic market, but we see our share of famous origin and rediscovered teas here too. Looking back over 2020, a few highlights:
Bai Lin Black (shown at left)
Place-specific with a long history: what the tea makers accomplish here is to draw out what is inherent in the cultivar. (Like the others in this short list, there was no blending and no ingredient other than the tea itself.) The cup yields seductive notes of toffee and caramel and makes for elegant sipping.
Trailblazing and the experience of tea researchers are on display here in a luscious, softly sweet Black tea.
The name Wuyi always resonates loudly among tea aficionados, and this new find, with its deeply layered flavor, not only conveys the distinctiveness of the terroir but is a great value too. Just arrived from the 2020 fall harvest.
Super White Mudan (At right: brief outdoor withering)
A relatively early spring White from Fuding, we have a limited quantity remaining. Cleaner and brighter in appearance than most White Mudans, the tea gives a generous sense of what even minimalist processing can produce
Orchid Snow Buds Green (shown at left)
A local tea produced in eastern Zhejiang, we were the first importer to bring this Green into the U.S. Fine spirally leaves (“eagle’s claw”) are visually striking, and as is true of most Zhejiang Green teas, the taste is fresh and sweet. Limited quantity in stock.
If end of the year sales have diminished your basic stock, please note a few reliable staple teas such as the following:
Puer (cooked) Mini TuoCha, at a new lower price. (Approx 62 to 65 pieces in a pound)
Lichee Black
Expanded selection of Genmaicha: its familiar roasted rice taste makes this a friendly introduction to Sencha. (Origin Japan, EU compliant). Also available in Origin China, Organic and in Origin China, EU compliant.
English Breakfast blends, conventional and organic
Earl Grey: conventional, fancy, decaf, and organic, and in a crème style
Heralding new teas coming on the market — we shall see these posters before too long.
Warm regards,
Lydia
January 15, 2021
